Tiddler Touring:
I will never forget the moment when it all began.
It was an immensely cold winter morning during the July school holidays in 1983. My blue Suzuki ER50 was packed to the brim with a rolled up sleeping bag, tools and my rucksack filled with my weekend’s clothing. Kitted out with my bright orange full face helmet, a windbreaker with fancy zip-on sleeves and array of two stroke oil spots on the back, my North Star tekkies, jeans and leather gloves, I set off from Upington in the early misty morning on my way to Skanskop Island, on the outskirts of the Keimoes district…
I was only 16 years old, and this was my very first proper motorcycle adventure: One where you actually needed to pack your bags and had to sleep over a few nights. My parents very reluctantly allowed me to go and visit my friend who had moved to Keimoes, who was also an enthusiastic motorcyclist at the time. Needless to say, the weekend was filled with meeting even more enthusiastic 50cc riders. We discovered a myriad of jeep tracks scattered across the many partially inhabited agricultural islands around Keimoes, as well as more sandy trails that led to secluded swimming spots on the banks of the Orange River.
For me, this was everything. This was the culmination of life and freedom and is was most probably on this trip where my love affair with discovering the desert trails and diverse landscapes of the Northern Cape began.
I am now 55 and I still have not discovered enough of it. I am certainly not finished yet!
Growing up on the banks of the Orange River, I was also an enthusiastic fisherman. I learned to catch fish with hand lines and mostly light and very basic gear. Later in my life I discovered fly fishing for yellows. I have also had the opportunity to do a bit of angling in the sea. Strangely enough the sea fishing never grabbed me as much as river fishing. For me personally using light gear, has a very specific appeal. It is raw, and you can feel every single movement of your catch, and you are totally in touch with the experience.
There is a strange similarity when fishing gets compared to motorcycles. Personally I like it more to ride faster with a smaller motorcycle than riding slower with a larger motorcycle, as you are literally more in touch with the bike and road surface. Through the years, I have had the opportunity to do trips on a variety of motorcycles. This includes bikes such as a BMW 1200, BMW 650’s, a DRZ 400, a DR 650 (my current bike) and others. However, a trip that really stands out the most, was one I did with a friend with a KDX200 and a rucksack only, from Port St Johns to Coffee Bay. Like fishing with light gear, I liked this. It was raw and unpredictable as the smaller bikes could go anywhere and we literally bundu bashed through Transkei, ending up pushing bikes through rivers and staying over in back packer lodges, and meeting interesting travellers.
I met Gustav Eybers a few years later, a very interesting character, who at that point in time must have owned probably more than 50 motorcycles of which some were unique collectors’ bikes. What struck me most was his keen interest in smaller motorcycles, vintage scooters and rare models such as Honda Monkey bikes and the likes. Amongst other bikes, he currently owns two Honda CT 110’s a Honda CT 90, and a Honda ANF 125. This is a guy who will think nothing of jumping onto a Honda CTX200 farm bike and riding it all the way from Cape Town to Pretoria. Or rocking up with the same farm bike and doing an organised enduro ride in Wakkerstroom with his windbreaker and vellies, amongst all the fancy 300 two stroke riders with their latest kit and then departs with respect!
I had to show Gustav the Transkei and we did a similar trip with my KDX200 and a R10 000 wreck of a RMZ250 that was typically Gustav arrangements, purchased the day before.
The trip started in Keimouth and after traversing many rivers and breath-taking valleys, we ended at Bulangula Lodge. We ended up spending more time changing oil on the RMZ than anything else, but it was still an unforgettable trip.
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinso – Gustav and I travelling in Transkei in 2008 on a Kawasaki KDX200 and a Suzuki RMZ 250.
A year or so later we did a similar small capacity motorcycle trip in the Riemvasmaak area in the Northern Cape, on a CTX200 and a Husaberg 400.
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – Gustav and I near Riemvasmaak in 2011, with a Honda CTX200 farm bike and a Husaberg 400.
With Gustav’s influence I sold my BMW and bought a DRZ400, and so started with a series of many adventures, mostly solo in very remote areas. Places where I would never have even considered entering with a heavier bike. By now I was convinced doing a trip on a smaller capacity bike is a lot more fun and it exposes one to more options of discovery and adventure. Almost a full circle return to my very first trip with my ER50 in 1983.
It was during Lockdown 2020, when we first started discussing a possible trip somewhere on very small and unique motorcycles. Gustav owns a 1980’s CT 110 (Postie) and I converted a 2003 Honda CRF 230 into a custom scrambler a few years ago. The trip was planned and postponed many times, but we eventually concluded it must be a dirt road trip from Pretoria to Dullstroom. Bearing in mind every trip planned with Gustav, you never know if the trip will actually happen, until you are actually on the bike, leaving town. With very little packing space, it was a lot of this way and that way of who is taking what, so tools could be shared etc.
In the end I had to pack all the tools as I was blamed that I normally “jinx” him by saying he must pack tools since he has done a million trips without ever having any issues. A very confident statement for someone riding a 40 year old Postie!
Even though neither of the bikes had roadworthy discs, we left Pretoria very early on 6th January 2022, in the midst of the rainy season. What a way to start the new year. We do not generally support riding without roadworthy bikes, and did consider trailering the bikes to Bronkhorstspruit, but decided against it as the trip would then not have been as authentic as when leaving from home. A lot of time went into discussing various routes and how to dodge the cops, leaving Pretoria. Luckily for us, unlike the old days, where cops followed you and pulled you over, they are generally quite predictable, and we knew almost exactly where they normally park on the major roads on the periphery of the city.
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – Filling up early morning in Pretoria, ready to hit the road.
Our route started through the suburbs, avoiding all major roads, and heading for the first dirt road turn-off from the Cullinan road towards Rayton. A relaxed feeling came over us when we hit the dirt roads as it meant cop free zone. Crossing over through traffic in Rayton was easy and then we jumped onto a railway service road, which leads almost all the way to Bronkhorstspruit. On this section we encountered our first rather deep, water crossing. It started raining and at this point my (heavily loaded) reliable CRF230 started missing beats for some reason, mostly in top gear. Entering Bronkhorstspruit was nerve wracking as we were not only in cop zone again, but also hectic traffic and avoiding lots of taxis. At this point in time we were already soaking wet and I discovered my raincoat zip was missing and I had to make do with a kayak vest I had luckily packed as well.
My not so wise idea of not to wear too much safety gear on a small bike and replacing my boots with my safety shoes, came back to me, and my feet were soaking wet and cold, and the trip had only just begun.
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – Our first water crossing on the railway service road near Rayton.
After we had dried out a bit and filled our empty tummies with a mouth-watering breakfast we set of onto the R25 towards Groblersdal, and then the surprisingly beautiful R907 dirt road that runs parallel to the R25. But this was not before I discovered I suddenly had ignition issues and I had to push start my bike, almost regurgitating the lovely breakfast I just consumed.
After approximately 20km we took another dirt road towards the east, that led past Meulstroom Farm, and through a breathtakingly beautiful valley flanked by steep cliffs and mountain ranges. The usual stop on any trip is a pee stop at the bridge over the scenic Wilge River which was in near full flood with all the rains. By this time the rain had stopped momentarily, and I swopped my mechanical problems of a stuttering fifth gear, which had miraculously disappeared for a bike that refused to start at all.
Photo credit: Gustav Eybers – The usual stop at the bridge over the Wilge River, near Meulstroom farm.
We hit more dirt roads with a short tar section in between, past Langkloof village. From here the road climbs dramatically in altitude, and afforded magnificent views across a lush nature reserve and an astoundingly beautiful valley which lies on either side of the upper flow of the Olifants River, which approximately 20km onwards, flows into Loskop Dam. En-route to Loskap Dam we passed two villages, Thabakhubedu and Ntwane, where it seemed that time stood still, and here we were only greeted with friendly waves and smiles from both kids and adults along the roadside.
In Loskop Dam’s village, again it was time to fill the tanks and tummies. Surprisingly the CRF230 was still on three quarters and I was totally surprised by the fuel efficiency, but then again, the pace was immensely slow to allow the CT110 to keep up. At the Bospot we ordered the infamously delicious hamburger, which, on a good day and with almost no customers, takes about an hour to prepare! Gustav even managed to get a smile out of the normally adverse lady that manages the restaurant, something none of my fellow riders have ever achieved before!
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – The bridge across the Olifants River just below Loskop Dam.
The next section of the road led past Kruis Rivier Nature Reserve and was probably my favourite section of the road. The route started off past agriculture fields, as we were still riding near the Olifants River basin below Loskop Dam. Then it veered off into an area that could just as well have been the Serengeti plains. The landscape was lush green with Savannah plains and dotted with huge Paperbark trees and game everywhere. On this road we just had to stop numerous times for photo opportunities. By now of course I was getting used to the burning sensation of my post Covid chest after push starting the CRF230 for the umpteenth time!
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – The beautiful true African landscape all along Kruis Rivier Nature Reserve.
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – A quick stop a the junction near Stofberg.
A short pothole ridden tar section took us to Stofberg, where it was time to fill up again. However, disaster struck as we were about to leave, Gustav informed me that the CTI’s petrol cable had broken. The CT110’S carburettor was opened up as well as the throttle body. It proved to be the lead cable end stop which broke off at the top end of the cable. Despite the setback, Gustav bragged that his Honda’s are so reliable, that if they do break occasionally, they choose to always do that at a filling station! It did not take us long to find a solution, and we bought a car battery clamp in the quick shop. The righthand side mirror was removed and the cable’s end part was neatly screwed to the mirror’s threaded aperture, and the battery clamp tightened around the cable end. It now almost worked like a quads throttle, except it required pulling as the circular clamp that normally clamps around a battery’s electrodes, now fitted neatly around Gustav’s index finger!
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – Roadside repairs of a broken throttle cable.
The moment we hit the next dirt road at Laersdrif, we were in for a huge surprise! We encountered just mud, mud and more thick soppy mud for the rest of the road all the way to Dullstroom! Surprisingly it was less difficult than it initially appeared and then the two small bikes happily cruised along through the mud and deep puddles at a steady pace. Halfway through this ominous stretch, we came across a biker couple on a KTM 690 and KTM 390, who were desperately looking for the nearest bail out road! After having a quick friendly chat we left and in my rear view mirror I could see how they jealously glanced after the two light weight bikes cruising effortlessly through the mud! I would love to know what time they reached Dullstroom as by now the sun already started to cast long shadows.
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – Endless mud between Laersdrif and Dullstroom.
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – The CT110 cruising effortlessly though the deep puddles.
Shortly after this encounter, we stopped briefly before a hectic little pass and reminisced about two previous trips, where coincidentally both of my BMW’s broke down at exactly the same spot. By now the Honda was running like a Rolex and all previous stutters were a total thing of the past and I was so happy to be on a Japanese bike!
After our increasing gain in confidence in the mud we decided why not do a quick in and out to Tonteldoos for a softy at the famous Highside Tavern. We were happy to hear from the always friendly manager, Tanya, that the tavern was still in operation. Although we will miss the passionate fellow biker and previous owner Peter McBride, the pub is now in the competent hands of another passionate adventure biker.
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – A quick stop for a well earned cold one after all the mud at Highside Tavern.
The last stretch of approximately 21 kilometres went quickly and finally after 13 hours on the road, we stopped at the Dullstroom Inn for a proper dinner and a few beers! The best feeling in the world to finally take off your soaking wet boots, which by now were smelling like a well matured compost heap.
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – The two tiddlers resting in front of the Dullstroom Inn.
After sleeping like two dead horses, we woke up at daybreak, and set off from Dullstroom back to Pretoria in rather misty weather. What makes this specific route to Dullstroom so remarkable is the variety of landscapes one passes through. In contrast to the previous day’s Savannah type landscapes, we now passed through an area that resembled the Scottish Highlands dotted with pine forests fading in the mist.
Photo credit: Chris Wilkinson – Leaving Dullstroom on a cold misty morning.
We followed the same route back and by now were able to move faster as the mud had slightly dried out. The trip back was relatively trouble free and the CT110 was still being operated by the makeshift throttle cable repair.
Near Bronkhorstspruit it started raining heavily and abruptly, the CRF230’s stutters returned. Suddenly I realised, it was my exposed café racer design sponge air filter that got wet every time it rained and then water was sucked into the carburettor! A disappointment and a relief at the same time as I knew it was a problem which could be fixed easily!
We had one last hurdle to cross. Shortly after we had just gone through a massive thunderstorm on the R25, we rode straight into the beak of a mother of a roadblock with traffic officials everywhere! We made a brief stop to decide whether we were going to make a clever plan bypassing them or turn back and ride through the same thunderstorm again. By now we were exhausted, wet, hungry and just wanted to get home, so decided to ride on the opposite dirt shoulder and as soon as we get in very close proximity we will veer off into the veld and pass behind them.
It worked! They were so occupied with taxis and other motorists that the two tiddlers just slipped by unnoticed! After we fist bumped on the successful execution of our plan, we waved cheers to each other and set off to our respective homes. On the last stretch to my home, the sun came out, I warmed up and I could not help to remember the words of a varsity friend who once said:
“The faster you ride, the faster life goes past you!”
Words & Pics: Chris Wilkinson, Gustav Eybers
To see the video of this adventure, click on..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNa-yXVlSzQ
Or see other adventures by Chris Wilkinson click on..
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCULavvArLHMxwPMf6erCCww
